A classic batik tiga negeri from Batang regency (Photo credit: Batik Tulis Batang)

Nurul Maslahah, is a young batik maker in Batang Regency and owner of Batik Tulis Batang. She has started making batik since she was 12 years old. She started helping her mother with adding isen-isen (adding filler motif). She sold her first batik when she was in the middle school through Facebook. Her mission is to preserve batik so that it is better known by the wider communities, both nationally and internationally.

In this episode of aNERDspective (our NERD talk show where we converse with amazing friends about their textile adventure and perspectives), we talked to Nurul about Batang’s hand-drawn specialty batik and how she develops it to attract more young audience to know more about batik.

Note: Full chat is in Bahasa Indonesia and this translation of the transcript has been edited for reading format.

Tony Sugiarta: Welcome Nurul to today’s episode of aNERDspective. We want to talk about your journey and to find out more about Batang’s hand-drawn batik. We shall start with an introduction first, who is Nurul and your journey through batik.

Nurul Maslahah: Thank you. I am fine. My name is Nurul Maslahah from Batang Regency, Central Java. I learned this hand-drawn batik because my family is a batik maker family, including my mother and my sisters. So, I am interested in batik. Moreover batik is a unique work of art because it is made by hand and is very extraordinary. In a piece of batik cloth we can express an idea and make it onto the batik cloth.

How old are you now? 

I am now 20 years old.

At what age did you start holding a canting? 

Around the age of 12, in 6th grade, I started learning batik. I helped my mother to make isen-isen. Then when I graduated from elementary school, I became more and more happy to learn batik. When I was in middle school, I wanted to sell hand-drawn batik online. I first sold batik when I was in middle school through Facebook and someone bought it. So, I got even more encouraged to make batik again. I then continued to introduce hand-drawn batik to other social media, such as Instagram.

You have known batik since young, saw your mother nyanting, then at the age of 12, started helping your mother and holding your own canting starting from isen-isen. And you have started to make a full cloth batik now?

Yes, now I can make a full batik cloth. Friends who want to see my work can see it on Instagram @batiktulisbtg.

There are not many young batik makers who are very active on social media. I was introduced to you by Sabine (Bolk) from The Netherlands. She introduced me to Nurul and I looked at your IG (and thought): there are the young generation that we need to support and there are stories that we can learn from. Nurul, can you tell us a little about Batik Batang itself?

Batik makers in Batang are currently about 40-50 years old and many young people here do not learn about batik and prefer to work outside the city. In fact, this hand-drawn batik needs to be preserved as one of Indonesia’s heritage. Who else, if not the younger generation, will protect that?

What is the motivation for you to continue and study batik?

My personal mission is to preserve Batik so that it is better known by the wider community, both nationally and internationally. The way is to develop traditional motifs into something that is more unique.Now we are looking at designs for young people, we must be able to develop them so that they look cool because young people nowadays like something that is more “exotic” and not too traditional. I want to make a special motif for the younger audience.

My mission is to preserve batik nationally & internationally by developing traditional motifs into something that is more unique for younger audience.

Can you explain a little about the traditional motifs? 

The traditional motifs in Batang are the materos motif, the gendagan motif or pohon hayat (Tree of Life), and the liris motif. The gendagan or pohon hayat motif also has a philosophy. The story is that pohon hayat is from India and it is said that many batik artisans made the motif. Now the motif has changed its shape and is not what it used to be. The philosophy of pohon hayat is that it is a tree that is very strong and they can go through tough weather, heat and rain, and it remains strong. We can take this philosophy into everyday life – that humans can be strong while facing adversity or problems wherever they are. We must be able to go through all of this in order to become a successful person and achieve our dreams.

How do you innovate for the younger generation? 

I redeveloped the motif into something that is more modern. For example, I make the motif simpler because young people nowadays rarely wear traditional batik. I also changed the colour, not sogan or brown because young people tend not to like sogan colours. I transformed it into a softer colour with a simpler one. Also, I made shirts and other accessories, so it is not only made into clothes but also other accessories such as bags.

So, in addition to fabrics, you also make products such as clothes and accessories? 

Yes. During this pandemic, I made a hand-written batik mask and it sold well.

What was the inspiration when designing these contemporary motifs?

I run with my own ideas. For example, the floral motifs in this area are made into batik. Then I also took a motif from one of the traditional batik here and I developed it again into a modern motif.

Besides the pohon hayat, are there other motifs that you work on? 

Usually, I work on batik tiga negeri because there are so many motifs in batik tiga negeri. The creations and forms of ornaments from the batik tiga negeri are very unique, so it is very easy to expand them into modern motifs.

The one that is known to many people from Batik Batang is called Batik Rifaiyah, correct? 

Yes.

Maybe you can tell us a little bit about what is the essence of Batik Rifaiyah?

Batik Rifaiyah has been well known and the most well known motifs are materos and romo gendong. The batik motif is a presentation of bang biron. There are also bird patterns but they have been combined or disguised in the form of plants so that they are not obvious. In Batik Rifaiyah, there is a teaching in which you are not allowed to draw living things as a whole. Through generations, the teachings have been passed down and preserved until now.

So you saw your mother and does your grandmother make batik too?

Both my grandmother and mother can batik and it has been for many generations.

Does everyone in your family make batik?

Yes.

Is your mother also still actively making batik?

Yes, my older and younger sister also.

How many brothers and sisters do you have?

Five of us.

Are all girls?

Four girls and the youngest is a boy.

Do all your sisters make batik?

Yes.

I saw your profile, after junior high school, you continued your education at SMK 1 (Vocational High School) majoring in Fashion Design. Why did you learn fashion? 

When I was in junior high school, I wanted to be able to sew, so that when I draw batik I could turn it into a product. Then I went to a vocational high school where they teach fashion studies so that I can make patterns and sew.

Is that also applied in the current business? 

Yes, I apply the pattern as well as sewing.

Are there differences between making full length batik cloth and patterned batik (for apparels)? 

The difference is in the motif design. For patterns, we have to be more careful so that the pattern can match on both left and right. The design has to be precise too.

Which is easier, to make a full cloth or a pattern? 

I prefer to make a full cloth, so I don’t need to worry and can go all the way.

Are there any rules (to observe) for wearing Batik Batang?

There are no rules for using it. Sometimes there are also people who wear it as a blazer.

So, it is very flexible, there are no rules. Of course, they have to be worn appropriately. There are no specific restrictions. Apart from motifs, what are the innovations or changes that you make to further Batik Batang? 

Besides developing the motif myself, I also changed the use of the fabric. For clothes, you usually use regular cotton, but if you apply it to a bag or scarf, we use a softer fabric.

So you also experimented with materials? 

Yes, I experimented with materials, colours, and motifs.

How is the response from your friends? 

They are also interested in learning batik. From the consumers who bought it, they are also satisfied with the Batang hand-written batik because the process is very unique, very different from other handwritten batik. Other batiks are sometimes not waxed on two sides of cloth. For Batik Rifaiyah, the waxing is done on two sides of the cloth, so the reverse side of the cloth is also waxed all over again. But now, hand-drawn batik has decreased (in sales) because many also make batik printing and the price is much cheaper. So, our consumers are the people who really like our products.

That is indeed one of the challenges for batik makers nowadays. On your side, what are some initiatives (that you did) to overcome these challenges?

In my opinion, we need to keep on trying, to be enthusiastic and to continue making batik in order to overcome these problems. We have to be optimistic that God has a plan.

For example, a full hand-drawn batik tulis is expensive because it takes a long time. Perhaps, we can combine it with simpler motifs so that the process is faster and the cost can be maximised.

We need to keep on trying, to be enthusiastic and to continue making batik in order to overcome these problems (i.e. fight against printed batik).

So, you are overcoming the production cost with simpler motifs while keeping the original batik hand-drawn process. Is there handstamped batik there?

In my area, most of them are hand-written batik.

Approximately how many batik makers are there in your area? 

About 50 people and there are more in Kalipucang.

Is it divided into groups or how is the batik ecosystem there? 

It is not divided into communities, so everyone is within Kalipucang. There is a batik gallery in Kalipucang. If there are visitors, they can stop by the gallery to see the batik.

So, everyone stores and sells in the gallery?

You can sell via the gallery or you can also sell them online yourself.

Does each batik workshop do the full process – from design, waxing, dye, and lorod? So, they produce everything and sell it themselves? 

Yes. Usually my neighbors come to me to help them sell online or during an exhibition. Usually, many sold it middlemen to be resold to other areas.

So, these middlemen only buy ready-made batik? 

Yes.

So they are not batik producers where they do the finishing and so on?

No, they just buy ready-made fabric.

The artisans organise themselves – who sells to whom and they also have their own communities. You mentioned earlier that there were around 50 batik makers and maybe they were already old. 

There are about 40 elderly people and 10 young people which is still very few.

Most young people have left (the village)? 

Yes.

As a young batik maker, what are the challenges that you face? 

The first is the competition with cheaper batik, such as printing and stamping.

Secondly, the weather. When it rains, the process of drying the cloth is slow and the dye result does not match with what the consumer wants. I have been failing to dye because of the weather.

What do you do then? 

In the rainy season, we must be more careful during the dyeing process. If it is a bit cloudy, it is better to not dye the cloth first. The weather can really affect the colour. If it is summer, it does not matter, you want to dye it anytime you can.

Now what kind of dyes do you use? 

Mostly using bang biron (ed.: red and blue) now. I also experimented to make the colours I want. I use experimental dyes with my modern motifs. As the traditional motifs still use traditional dyes, we do not change the colour.

What are the experimental dyes? 

I made natural colours and softer colours, such as light blue and pink.

Indigosol, I reckon?

Yes.

How about the bang biron? 

For traditional motifs, I use synthetic dyes.

How long does the process take? 

For batik tiga negeri, it takes more than a month because the motifs are complicated. For other motifs, such as jeruk noi it does not take up to a month, only about two weeks.

How many colours are there? 

There are five colours, which are green, blue, red, orange, and brown. For the liris motif, there are three colours, which are red, blue, and green.

You finished all those within two weeks? 

Yes.

With dip-dyeing?

Yes, all are dip-dyed.

I would say that it is quite fast to get five colours.

Yes, because we have a good working system.

One cloth is completed in two weeks, is it all done by yourself?

Frankly, I have not been able to do the blocking process. So I can only do isen-isen (filler motif) and klowongan (outline). The blocking is done by my mother. Dyeing process is done by me and my mother.

In my opinion, that is quite fast if it takes between two weeks or a month to finish one cloth which is colourful.

Do you have any favorite motif and why?

My favourite motif is jeruk noi, and liris motif since these motifs are unique and also simple.

Is it your favourite because it is easy to make?

Yes, it is simple and easy to make.

What else are the challenges?

Marketing is reduced, especially during this pandemic period. Sales are only a little because during this pandemic period, there are not many exhibitions.

Where do you usually sell it?

Exhibitions, social media, direct at our workshops too.

If not during the COVID period, where do you usually do the exhibition?

We usually go to Jakarta, at JCC (Jakarta Convention Centre), Adiwastra or Inacraft events. I also participated in an exhibition held by the Batang Regency at JCC.

How was the response from visitors who came?

When participating in the Adiwastra exhibition at JCC, there were a lot of things that sold. There were many visitors from abroad as well and they were interested because of the process of Batang’s hand-written batik. The front and the back are the same, so they are confused which is the front and the back because they look the same. So, if you wear Batik Batang, you do not have to worry about wearing it in the wrong way. Either way, they look good.

Social media (sales) is still low since COVID. It was usually high, in the normal times.

You usually post Instagram posts and stories?

Yes, it is usually posts and stories on Whatsapp too.

How is the marketing during this COVID?

Only online during this period.

How are the responses from consumers?

They often order. We have repeat customers too. They are satisfied with our batik as the quality is good despite the price. The colours do not fade easily as compared to other batik from another area.

Have you ever regretted exploring the world of batik?

I do not regret studying batik because I like to draw. I also like innovations and inspirations in design.

I have heard many stories from young batik makers and from other areas that most parents do not want their children to continue with batik. What is the response from your family?

They have no problem if I want to learn batik. We, as the young generation, need to preserve handdrawn batik. My parents support me and (I think it is good) that I can help my parents and to learn business. My friends also said that batik is old-fashioned only for the old people but I reckon that this is our culture and it is a shame if we do not like our own culture.

That may be one of the challenges as a batik advocate.

What do you think is needed to be able to encourage young people so that they are more familiar with culture and know batik?

In my opinion, there must be something unique for young people so that they realise that batik is acceptable for young people. It is also cool as it can be applied into different models that are unique and contemporary. This way they can get updated about batik and learn about them.

So you provided alternative designs as new options around batik so as to change their mindset. Is that the case?

Yes, it is true.

For friends who are listening, what kind of help or support can they provide for you in developing Batik Batang again and to grow it in the community?

I think they can help to expand the network, for example by helping promote online, so that more people will see batik and help further promote it again.

It could also be providing assistance in the form of cloth, batik tools or the internet for social media. For young people to learn batik, we can give help to kickstart in the form of batik tools or cloth.

So, the help needed is material and internet for marketing as well as building networks?

Batang hand-written batik is not yet widely known. When participating in exhibitions in Jakarta, I (have to) explain about Batang hand-written batik because they are more familiar with Pekalongan batik. Batang hand-written batik is not as well known.

Although Batang and Pekalongan are only about half an hour apart, correct?

Both are close, less than half an hour, maybe only about fifteen minutes.

Well.. Pekalongan is already well known as a batik city.

I also want Batang’s hand-written batik to be like Pekalongan’s, to be as widely known. The difficult part is to invite young people to work together to expand it. It is impossible for the elderly to continue. The young ones must take over. We (young and old) must work together to further market Batik Batang

Is batik taught in schools there?

In my own school, there used to be batik class but now it is no longer offered.

So, batik is not one of the curriculum in school?

No. Batik should be made mandatory. Like it or not, you have to learn batik.

At least you can be introduced to batik. (Regardless) they want to continue or not, at least they have been introduced to first.

Yes, that is how it should be.

Maybe you can work together with the schools?

Yes, the school wanted to re-introduce the module when I won a school event on entrepreneurship held by the Ministry of Education. My teacher was interested to have batik as an extracurricular program.

Yes, can you talk more about the experience with the program?

When I was in school, there was an entrepreneur club for budding entrepreneurs. One was chosen to represent the school in a competition and to join in a workshop. I was chosen to represent the school at the Ministry of Education headquarter where I had an extraordinary experience to know people from all over Indonesia. There, I was interviewed about the business.

Is it some kind of workshop?

No, it is not a workshop. It started with a workshop, but later the chosen one will be invited to go to the stage to be interviewed about the business.

Is it a competition?

Yes, kind of a competition. The one with the biggest turnover will be the winner.

What did you learn from this experience?

First of all, I received new insights and I could promote Batik Batang to more people. I can meet other young people who are doing business so we can share information around business.

Which industries do they come from?  Are they from the textile industry?

No, there are people who come from farming, food, art. So it is all different.

Sounds very interesting and certainly a lot can be learned. 

What are the projects that you are currently doing?

Now, I am completing an order for a batik tiga negeri that is to be made into a shirt,as well as some batik shawls as well.

Are there any new experiments that we can look forward to from Nurul?

Currently I am working on Pagi-Sore motifs and also full-length motifs. If you want to request one with a sewing pattern or made into a shirt, it is also possible.

So it is not just full-length fabric, but fabric with (sewing) pattern too?

Yes.

So you accept orders too?

Yes.

Can you explain a little about the design development? Can they order new designs or do you develop old designs with new styles? What is the process usually like?

If they order traditional batik, we can reproduce. We can also make something that the buyers want.

For the non-traditional (motif), is there any particularly memorable design?

There was a buyer who ordered batik but he wanted a motorcycle motif. There is also an order to be made as a prayer mat.

For the prayer mat, it means the size is smaller, right?

Yes, it is smaller.

How is the process of making a batik with motorbike motifs?

It is drawn according to customer order. It is drawn with a pencil first and then traced with a canting.

So you can make any motif?

Yes, we can make any motif. If traditional motifs, we usually do not have pencil outline. We will immediately use wax to draw them. For modern motifs, we are scared that it is wrong and untidy, hence we draw the outline with pencil first.

So when you make traditional batik, you do not need to make an outline first?

The pattern is placed underneath (as a reference) and wax it with canting immediately.

What are your hopes for Batik Batang Rifaiyah in the future?

I hope that hand-drawn batik from Batang will be known by the wider community and can be preserved and spread to the communities around us.

What are the last messages to reach out to young friends to know more about Batik Batang?

To invite them to learn batik, we show them batik products which are more modern so that they are more interested and there will be more collaborations.

We hope you enjoyed this episode of aNERDspective. Check out the previous episode on IGTV and our gallery and store if you would like a piece of Indonesia for your home or wardrobe. You may also check out  Batik Tulis Batang’s Instagram for the latest collection.

Photo credit: Batik Tulis Batang, unless stated otherwise.